Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Gardens
Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds gather.
This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with plump mauve berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.
"I've seen people hiding illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He's organized a informal group of growers who produce wine from four hidden city grape gardens nestled in private yards and community plots throughout the city. The project is sufficiently underground to have an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Around the Globe
So far, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which features more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of Paris's historic Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help urban areas stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. They protect open space from construction by establishing permanent, yielding farming plots within urban environments," explains the association's president.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," adds the president.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Back in the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he comments, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Throughout the City
The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of the city's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from France and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty vines. "I love the aroma of these vines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a basket of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established over 150 vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from lines of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make good, natural wine," she says. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various wild yeasts are released from the surfaces and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently add a lab-grown culture."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on